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Are you longing to meander through the back streets of Rome and sip cappuccino as the sun rises in Venice? <I>Fodor's upClose Italy</I>, written for world wanderers traveling on the cheap, does its best to help you experience the heart of this awe-inspiring country. You'll want to visit the must-see sights--the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, the Sistine Chapel--but you might also hope to encounter some of the country's lesser-known charms, such as the Casa di Colombo, in Genoa, where the old men will "tell you all about Columbus, according to them, the first explorer who didn't fall off the edge of the earth." It's experiences such as these that make a journey memorable--not the laundry list of museums you breezed through. In each of the book's 14 geographic sections, you'll find countless morsels pointing the way to picturesque <I>piazze</I>, buildings once frequented by famous figures, and glimpses of Italy's everyday beauty.<p> When it comes to practical matters--where to eat, sleep, and catch the train--<I>Fodors upClose Italy</I>, though not exhaustive, is a solid resource. If you do find yourself in Venice, for example, you might consider staying at the Locanda Sant'Anna: "Way out in the <I>popolare</I> (working-class) section of Castello past the Arsenale, this is more like a strange old apartment than a hotel. The worn, grandmotherly furniture and backyardish courtyard enhance the effect." Useful features, such as a quickie Italian language glossary and pronunciation reference; clear, but not overly detailed maps; and minutiae-filled sidebars round out Fodor's upClose guide to this impassioned country.